There is nothing better than experiencing a culture through the eyes of locals. I just returned from an incredible journey with the Rubelli family discovering the majesty of Italian manufacturing seeing their showrooms, mills, projects and archives from Milan to Venice. In between our tours looking at Italian textiles, leather, glass, art, and architecture, they graciously treated us to the most incredible meals, fellowship, and education that makes their Venetian heritage so unique. The Rubelli passion, generosity and hospitality were beyond extraordinary.
One of the most highly anticipated launches at High Point Furniture Market was the Florence Broadhurst Collection for Selamat Designs. Best known for her whirlwind personality and extraordinary creativity, Florence was constantly reinventing herself. She spent the roaring 20s singing her way throughout the Far East, served as headmistress in a Shanghai finishing school, became “Madame Pellier,” French couturier to London’s elite during the 1930s, and moved back to her homeland of Australia as an aristocrat, buisnesswoman, society maven and painter.
At the age of 60, she launched her bespoke internationally renowned wallpaper business. Her archive containing over 300 designs consists of stylized flowers, textured graphics, dramatic abstracts, overscaled patterns and metallic inks. Her experimentation with layering pattern and color helped her designs to remain relevant through the years. Her biography says that “Florence Boradhurst is to Austrailia what Missioni is to Italy, Marremeko is to Scandanavia, and Liberty is to London.”
FROM THE ARCHIVES
FROM THE ARCHIVES
The “Mayfair Crossing” collection reflects Florence’s love of nature reinterpreted with a lively color combination.
The palette of “Shanghai Nights” is saturated with jade teals, greys, and metallics. The Art Deco influences are seen in the mirrored finishes, exotic birds and fretwork.
The “Sydney Mod” collection is inspired by the Brutalist and Cubist movements with 1970s styling. Black, white and gold enhamce the sculptural and graphic shapes.
Few things get me as giddy as the anticipation of new collections released by my favorite interior and fashion designers. Schumacher‘s A-List of designer collaborations contains all of my most loved design talents including Mary McDonald, Celerie Kemble, Alessandra Branca, Trina Turk and now Miles Redd. The teasers being released in the fall magazines and today on the Schumacher blog give a glimpse of what’s to come from this dashing design star. Known for his theatrical imagaination and charming personality, the new fabrics are sure to become classics.
Since Schumacher was founded in 1889, the family-owned company has been synonymous with style, taste and innovation. Their collections are comprehensive, with an extraordinary range united by a respect for classicism, an eye for the cutting edge, and an unparalleled level of quality. A passion for luxury and an unwavering commitment to beauty are woven into everything they do.
Read below for Dara Caponigro’s “behind the shoot” story…
The Atlanta-born Miles Redd began his design career after graduating from New York University and honing his skills with luminary antiques dealer John Rosselli and decorator Bunny Williams. In 1998, he opened his own design firm in New York City. Best known for an eye-catching color sensibility, his trademark brand is characterized by playful mélanges of high and low, invigorated with whimsy, scale and modernity rooted in classic decorating.
Miles was the creative director of Oscar de la Renta Home from 2003 to 2013. Published in 2012, Redd’s The Big Book of Chic gives a glimpse into the inspiration that fuels his design, and focuses on the pleasures of living life in a beautiful way. Miles was most recently honored as one of Architechtural Digest’s “AD 100” in 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015 as well as being recognized as House Work’s Groundbreaker Award in 2014.
Known as a master colorist, Miles’ brilliance shines through in this collection with how he completely transforms each textile with his choice of coloration. The varying range of bold hues to a monochromatic tones makes this an incredibly versatile collection to use in any interior from traditional to contemporary.A few of the fabrics in the new line include a shimmering Mylar wallpaper based on Mile’s famous mirrored bathroom, a whimsical print with birds, flowers and branches, and a saturated graphics and silk solid that will be avilable in all of Miles’ favored bold hues.
When a client brings a spark of inspiration to the design process, it makes my job as a designer much more rewarding. My primary role as an interior designer is an interpreter…being able to translate my client’s tastes into successful spaces. In doing so, the rooms become like the individuals and no two turn out alike. I recently had the privilege to work on a project that was inspired by a client’s favorite Hermès scarf. It embodied everything she desired…the colors, the pattern and the luxurious feeling she wanted for the space.
The last time I was in Paris, I saw the Hermès textile and wallpaper collection for the first time…The spell that this line always casts had me completely enchanted.
Zébrures takes its inspiration from a zebra’s coat. The stripes form a wave, like palm leaves in the wind. The motif appears in the cotton weft over a silk chevron background which gives this jacquard fabric texture and contrast.
The Hs fit together like links in a chain to form undulating lines. This brocatelle jacquard, made of cotton and linen is sturdy and matt. It is available in neutral or high-contrast two-tone colour schemes.
Croquis de tigre, taken from one of painter Robert Dallet’s sketches, depicts the profile and portrait of a majestic tiger. The elegant cotton-silk jacquard perfectly complements the animal’s natural beauty. The satin weave background is available in three rich, deep hues to offer the perfect contrast for the tiger’s powerful presence. These sketches, placed across the width of the fabric, could be used for upholstery so as for cushions.
Fermoir H evokes the subtle and close-fitting clasp. In this jacquard interpretation, the outlines of the links elegantly adorn a twill background. This classic geometrical pattern in cotton and viscose reconciles durability and sophistication in a range of seven colour schemes.
Jungle Life’s repeating pattern depicts the jungle surrounding the big cats in love from the now iconic Jungle Love silk scarf designed by Robert Dallet in 2000. The design brings to life an imaginary world of luxuriant vegetation. Jungle Life is printed on a graceful heavy silk twill that is new to the collection. It perfectly symbolises Hermès’s creative approach and renders the print even more stunning in three variations, each with 21 colours.
A contemporary interpretation of the iconic Chaine d’Ancre. The striated rings evoke motor racing tracks
Pierre Marie Agin plays with ribbons which uncoil and escape from their coils. They find their way into the complex interplay of concentric circles and geometric games in the ribbon factory. Mixes of warps and wefts, and yarn crossing reveal a palette of precious colors in subtle shades of changing effects.
This original drawing from Jeff Fischer recalls coastal flora in a medallion composition. The vegetal patterns with colors patinated by the fresh air reflect pallets of grass, algae and sea water. The quality of the linen support and the regularity of the threads allow a perfect gouache effect and provide a particular smooth feel to the fabric.
The world of fantasy and travel, very important in the Hermès tradition, presented in a cotton print by Philippe Dumas
Inspired by the eponymous silk scarf created by Christine Henry in 2010, Arbre de vie is printed using the rare and exacting technique of warp printing before weaving. This exceptional 100% silk version transcends history with a radical change of scale. Emerald green dominates, plunging into a monsoon of lush, exaggerated greenery.
The iconic sailor motif revisited by Anamorphée plays out in a two-tone checked pattern developped in a contempory spirit. Reversible, this fabric with bright or marine colors is matched with Rayures Rocabar material. Water-repellent treated.
1) The famous fashion house was founded in 1837 by German-born French-raised Thierry Hermès.
2) Hermès began as a small harness workshop in Paris, which was dedicated to serving European noblemen, creating luxury harnesses and bridles for horse-drawn carriages. The Hermès logo is a royal carriage and a horse.
3) Thierry Hermès’ son, Charles-Émile Hermès, took over the management of the business and moved the shop in 1880 to 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré – where its flagship boutique still remains today.
4) Under new leadership and with fresh premises, Hermès introduced saddle manufacturing for the first time and began retail sales.
5) With the help of his sons Adolphe and Émile-Maurice, Charles-Émile grew the business’ global reach catering to Europe’s elite, with customers as far afield as North Africa, Russia, Asia and America, then in 1900 the firm introduced the Haut à Courroies handbag, which was specially designed for riders to carry their saddles with them.
6) Once Charles-Émile retired, the two sons renamed the business Hermès Frères and by 1914 had employed 80 saddle craftsmen due to huge demand, particularly from officials in Russia. The duo began using zips on their leather goods and were the first to introduce the device in France.
7) In the 1920s Émile-Maurice launched the firm’s first accessories collection and in 1922 the brand’s debut leather handbag was produced after his wife complained that she could not find a suitable one to her liking.
8) A decade later, the luxury label launched its Sac à dépêches bag (later renamed the Kelly) and in 1937 introduced its signature headscarves for the first time. The Queen is a firm favourite of the colourful silk designs.
9) In 1949, the same year as the launch of the Hermès silk tie, the first perfume, Eau d’Hermès, was produced.
10) Jean-Louis Dumas (great-great-grandson of Thierry Hermès) took over as the new head of the company in 1951.
11) After a commercial lull in the ‘70s, Dumas then concentrated on silk and leather goods, as well as revamped ready-to-wear, and the company’s fortunes began to turn after he modernised the business.
12) Dumas had nerve and put faith in new designers, hiring the unconventional Martin Margiela as creative director in 1997, and Jean-Paul Gaultier to replace him in 2003. The company was valued at £9.2billion at the time of his death in 2010.
13) Hermès kicked off the craze for naming handbag styles after celebrities. In 1956 a picture of Grace Kelly showed the silver screen icon using her Hermès Sac à dépêches bag to shield herself from a scrum of paparazzi photographers and so the style was renamed the Kelly. Each Kelly bag, like most Hermès designs, takes from 12 up to 18 hours to make.
14) But by far the most famous, and most collected design, is the Birkin, named after British sex kitten Jane. After a chance encounter on a plane with Dumas in the early ‘80s, the actress told him how her Kelly bag wasn’t big enough for everyday use, so they dreamt up a new design together and the Birkin was born.
15) A Hermès Birkin bag will set you back anything from £5,400 to a cool £100,000 in exotic skins such as saltwater crocodile, and its allure is further enhanced since the style isn’t available to buy instantly. Instead, you have to join an elite waiting list that can allegedly last years.
16) Hermès celebrated its 178th birthday this year
|Matthieu, Vincent and Pierre Frey|
Pierre Frey has always been one of my favorite design houses. From studying their textiles in design school to working with their products on current design projects, the quality, history and originality the company represents is incomparable.
The company was founded in 1935 by Pierre Frey in the heart of Paris and is still headquartered there. Since 1972, Pierre’s son, Patrick, has run the company and still remains active in the day to day activity as the President and Creative Director. Patrick’s sons, Pierre, Vincent, and Matthieu assist running the business side of the fabric house. Pierre serves as the brand ambassador and travels the world presenting the launches of new fabric, home and accessory collections.
President & Creative Director
Patrick instilled in all of his sons a love and appreciation for design. Many of their family trips have led to the creation of new fabrics that are added to the collection.
|L’Entree avec Steve Nobel|
In 2003, Pierre Frey created the archives which now include over 30,000 documents dating from the 16th century to the present day. The designs, fabrics, carpet samples, and garments can be searched by period, color, motif and technique. Pierre Frey gave us a wonderful tour of the showroom, offices and archives. The Pierre Frey archivist walked us through the history of textiles drawer by drawer….
This piece was likely used as a vestment for clergy and dates from the 17th century. I was surprised to hear that it would have been used for this considering the brilliant coloration until I saw Jacques -Louis David’s Coronation of Napolean (1807) at the Louvre a few days later….voila!
These vibrantly colored fragments provide inspiration for the new Pierre Frey fabric creations. Patrick Frey visits the archives (located on the bottom floor of their offices) very frequently. The archivist told us that he looks to the historical documents for motifs that can be reinterpreted through changing the scale or coloration. By looking to the past, he can then recreate something completely modern for the contemporary market.
These more classical fabrics are circa 18th century.
In 1991, Pierre Frey acquired Braquenie, a French fabric house that was established in 1824. The house is best known for their Indian fabrics, cottons, toiles de Jouy, and carpets.
These images above of Patrick’s office reflect not only his personal style, but also the philosophy of the company. A gorgeous antique desk blends beautifully with mid century modern furniture and contemporary touches.
Patrick also let us glimpse at a couple of designs in process that will be added to upcoming collections.
In addition to Braquenie, Boussac, and Fadini-Borghi, Pierre Frey has also recently acquired Maison Le Manach It was one of the last French houses able to produce French silks and velvets on handlooms. This addition to the Frey empire reflects their dedication to preserving the tradition, legacy and innovation of French design.
If you are interested in any additional information on any of the fabrics seen here, please do not hesitate to contact us at the design studio.